The Mugello of the great painters

The trail starts right from Borgo San Lorenzo (188 m), from Piazza del Popolo. After crossing the historic center, with what remains of its fourteenth-century walls, and passing the Clock Tower and the Porta Fiorentina, you reach Piazza Cavour. Not far from the historic center, you can visit historical buildings of great interest and evocative monuments such as the monument to the dog Fido, in Piazza Dante. Exiting the Town Hall on the right, you will find the Monument to the dog Fido (Salvatore Cipolla, 1957), a mixed-breed dog who lived in Luco di Mugello: he became famous because, after the death of his owner Carlo Soriani in 1943, he continued to go all his life, for about 14 years, to the bus stop, waiting for the return of his beloved owner.

From here, you will reach the vicinity of the banks of the river Sieve, an important watercourse that characterizes the entire lower Mugello and flows, after a journey of over 70 km, into the river Arno. You will walk along the entire eco-touristic path of the Sieve, which follows the river of the same name for 9 km, first on its left bank, and then near Sagginale, after crossing the Annibale bridge, on the right bank of the river. The cycle and pedestrian path is characterized by the presence of numerous bridges named after the ditches they cross. Arriving at Ponte a Vicchio (170 m), you can take a break along the banks of the Sieve.

You will cross the stone bridge, and after 1 km, you will enter the heart of Vicchio (200 m). The origins of the town date back to the Middle Ages when the village developed as an important stronghold along the communication routes and was fortified in the fourteenth century. The walls and towers that once protected the village now give way to a more peaceful atmosphere, but you can still breathe the ancient charm of the past.

Vicchio is famous above all for being the birthplace of two fundamental figures of Italian art and culture:

• Giotto di Bondone (1267-1337): the great master of medieval painting was born nearby, in the locality of Vespignano. Today, a house-museum celebrates the life and work of Giotto, considered the precursor of the Renaissance.
• Beato Angelico (1400-1455): another illustrious son of Vicchio, Fra Angelico, is known for his wonderful paintings, many of which are imbued with a deep sense of spirituality.

Continuing along Via Cavour, near the cemetery, you turn left towards Arsella, and after a few hundred meters, you begin a long loop path that will lead you to discover Casole (300 m), where it is presumed that the painter Beato Angelico was born. In the Birthplace of Beato Angelico, Guido di Pietro, known as Beato Angelico, was born, one of the greatest painters of the early Renaissance. The house, built in stone in the fourteenth century, preserves the memory of his childhood before moving to Florence, where he entered the Dominican convent of San Domenico in Fiesole and began his artistic and spiritual career. Born between 1395 and 1400, Guido di Pietro took the name Fra' Giovanni da Fiesole and was called Beato Angelico for the profound spirituality of his works. His innovative style combines realism and mysticism, giving life to masterpieces such as the frescoes of the Convent of San Marco in Florence, the Niccoline Chapel in the Vatican, and the Universal Judgment. The birthplace represents the starting point of an extraordinary journey that transformed a young peasant into a master of the Renaissance.

From this point, you can take the VARIANT of the path that will lead you to discover two other artists and their places: Pietro Annigoni and Andrea del Castagno.

VARIANT

The ascent towards the peaks is long and steady. In a few kilometers, you reach the almost 1200 meters above sea level of Monte Peschiena. Passing through lush woods, you arrive at Passo del Muraglione (907 m). The path hides a small surprise before reaching Castagno d'Andrea; not far from the main trail, just past the locality of Casone, you may come across the Calabuia Waterfall. The name "Calabuia" seems to derive from the fact that the waterfall faces north and is immersed in a dense forest, often remaining in shadow, even during the hottest hours of the day. This creates a cool and mysterious atmosphere, perfect for those seeking refuge from the summer heat and direct contact with wild nature. The waterfall consists of two main jumps, which flow into a crystalline pool, and several minor jumps that contribute to creating a suggestive and fascinating water play. One of the most interesting features of this natural spectacle is the formation of a circular cavity, similar to a "giant's pot," which has been created thanks to the erosion of the rocks. This formation is a true masterpiece of nature, adding an additional element of charm to an already extraordinary place.

To admire the waterfall in its entirety and especially the upper jump, it is necessary to walk along the surrounding path. The path, although easily accessible, has some steep sections that require attention, especially if the ground is wet or slippery. However, those who tackle this path are rewarded with a spectacular view of the waterfall and the entire surrounding landscape, offering breathtaking panoramas. The path is immersed in a forest of beech, fir, and chestnut trees that provide shade and coolness, creating a relaxing and regenerating atmosphere throughout the year. We are now close to Castagno d'Andrea.

Castagno d'Andrea is a charming mountain village in the municipality of San Godenzo located at the foot of Monte Falterona, in the heart of the National Park of the Casentino Forests. Its privileged position offers spectacular views and lush nature, as well as proximity to the sources of the Arno. At about 750 meters above sea level, the landscape is dominated by forests of beech and ancient chestnut trees. The village owes its name to the Renaissance painter Andrea del Castagno (1421-1457), born here in the fifteenth century. Its history dates back to the Middle Ages and is closely linked to the Florentine Republic. During the Second World War, Castagno d'Andrea found itself along the Gothic Line, becoming the scene of wartime events.

Andrea del Castagno was an innovative artist, famous for the expressive power and extraordinary perspective rendering of his works, including The Cycle of Illustrious Men and Women (Uffizi), The Last Supper (Sant'Apollonia), and Saint Julian and the Magdalene (Museum of the Opera del Duomo). The village celebrates him with the Andrea del Castagno Interpretation Center, which tells the story of his life and art.

Also, Pietro Annigoni (1910-1988), a famous portraitist known for his paintings of Queen Elizabeth II, found inspiration in Castagno d'Andrea, where he spent long periods. In the Church of San Martino, you can admire a frescoed crucifix by him, an example of his intense spirituality. An anecdote tells that he loved to isolate himself in the woods to paint, bringing only the essentials with him.

The poet Dino Campana, in his wanderings through the Apennines, found inspiration in the landscapes of Castagno d'Andrea, which deeply influenced his poetry.

The village is one of the gateways to the Casentino Forests Park, with paths leading to the sources of the Arno and Monte Falterona. The local cuisine, simple and genuine, features chestnuts, used in traditional dishes such as castagnaccio and sweet polenta. Castagno d'Andrea is a place where art, history, and nature intertwine, offering an authentic experience in the heart of the Apennines. Whether it's discovering the heritage of Andrea del Castagno, admiring the work of Annigoni, exploring the poetic paths of Campana, or savoring local specialties, this village offers a fascinating journey into Tuscan culture.

Closing the loop among the Vicchio countryside, for those who have not chosen to take the variant, you return towards the village passing by Lake Montelleri. Walking through the historic center, you may come across a bronze statue depicting Giotto with a palette and brushes, a tribute suggested by Carducci during a visit to friends. The Museum of Sacred Art and Popular Religiosity is dedicated to Beato Angelico, which preserves artworks from local religious buildings, with illustrious artists such as Francesco Furini, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea della Robbia. In 2017, the Museum was the protagonist of the event "UNDER GIOTTO'S SKY" to celebrate the 750 years since the artist's birth, hosting a monumental panel by the young Giotto. During the Renaissance, the goldsmith and sculptor Benvenuto Cellini bought a house and a farm in Vicchio. Today, the Casa di Cellini, located near Piazza Giotto, is a modern workshop hosting courses, meetings, and exhibitions.

Leaving Vicchio behind, you continue along ups and downs through the expertly cultivated fields. You then reach Vespignano (250 m), where you can visit the Giotto House Museum, a space of memory and creativity. Here you can admire a breathtaking panorama, a botanical garden, the remains of the Vespignano castle, and the church of San Martino, where one of Giotto's eight children was a parish priest. You then descend towards the Ensa stream, which you will cross at the Cimabue bridge, a famous late thirteenth-century painter and master of the renowned Giotto.

You pass through secondary roads until you reach SP 551, which you cross, leading you to the gates of Borgo San Lorenzo.

Youthful Giotto as a Shepherd

Giotto's life is steeped in stories and legends. Much of the credit for the spread of these stories goes to the Renaissance historian Giorgio Vasari, who transformed popular narratives into historical chronicles. Let's start with the first legend, reported by Vasari himself and confirmed by Ghiberti. It is said that Cimabue, a painter of the time, discovered Giotto, then a young shepherd, while he was drawing his sheep on a stone using an improvised charcoal

You cross the village towards Scarperia. The road is typical of Mugello, with its cultivated fields and the gentle hills that delimit the background. Near the village famous for knife making, you head towards Bosco ai Frati, one of the oldest Franciscan complexes in Tuscany. Its origins date back to the Lombard era (7th-8th century) when it was a small hermitage. In the thirteenth century, it was entrusted to the Franciscan friars, who transformed it into a center of prayer and hospitality for travelers. It is said that St. Francis of Assisi stayed there during his travels. In the fifteenth century, thanks to the support of Cosimo the Elder de' Medici, the convent was completely renovated by the architect Michelozzo, becoming an important religious and cultural center. Frequented by the grand ducal family, it was enriched with works of art and relics. Even Cosimo I and his successors continued to enhance it, contributing to its spiritual and artistic growth. Today, the convent preserves an invaluable historical and artistic heritage. Among the most precious works stands out the wooden Crucifix by Donatello, an extraordinary example of expressiveness and spiritual intensity. It also houses Renaissance paintings of the Florentine school, ancient illuminated manuscripts, sacred furnishings, and a library with historical manuscripts, testifying to its long tradition.

We leave the Convent behind and enter the forest immediately nearby. In a few kilometers, following the path called SOFT 7, you will reach San Piero a Sieve, an important stop on the famous Via Degli Dei. Here, you initially pass through Parco Antonio Berti, a green oasis dedicated to the memory of the famous sculptor born here in 1904. A meeting place for the community, it hosts cultural events, concerts, and the prestigious International Sculpture Symposium, which transforms the park into an open-air artistic workshop.

Antonio Berti, a student of Libero Andreotti, became one of the most sought-after portraitists of the twentieth century, working for sovereigns and illustrious personalities. His works, including famous busts and monuments, reflect his classic and refined style. The park preserves his spirit, combining nature and art in an open-air museum. We stroll through the streets of the center of San Piero a Sieve and head towards the village cemetery, finally leaving the last houses behind and reaching the Sieve Eco-touristic Trail, near the river of the same name. We cross the bridge and the long avenue, after passing Piazza Dante, will lead us back to the starting point of the trail.